Anyway it was an early start - though the bus was half hour late. Along the way stopped at a couple of small towns more for necessity than for sight seeing. Made it to Pahia by 12.30pm. Drove through town past the Waitangi treaty site which was where a treaty was signed between the Maori people and the British government in February 1840. Headed around the golf course to a lookout with panoramic views, which were currently non-existent due to amount of cloud cover and drizzle. Before going to the Saltwater hostel stopped at the information centre to pay for tours that we wanted to do. Had planned to do a day cruise tomorrow - which I kept changing my mind because of the weather - once Jenny found out that it wasn’t a catamaran and there was cover on board she was probably more interested so felt I should go also. Besides it is the Bay of Islands and should really go out and see them and the weather isn’t really conducive to hiking. Were also trying to figure out how to get across to the west coast to do the Footprints twilight tour. It was looking problematic as buses don’t run that way. Well the magic coach does but not that suited our schedule. Looked like a car hire may be the go which I was happy to do. Jen wasn’t as keen on the idea especially the part about driving the hour and half back after 10pm. Not an adventurous soul - or just more sensible than me!
With nothing organised we headed to the hostel as everyone on the coach was waiting. Managed to find two others who would be interested in driving with us and help with costs. Got settled in then went back to sort it out with the other ladies. However we managed to arrange to go to Hokianga on Wednesday with a tour group (without doing the tour) and then stay overnight to get collected the next morning by Magic. Which means tomorrow we are doing the day cruise around the islands. Just hope the weather is good enough to go right out to the final point - the Hole in the Rock. Also that the clouds lift so we can see the islands. If dolphins are spotted there may be the option to swim with them if the conditions and circumstances suit
.So with our schedule sorted the four of us headed around the bay to the Waitangi treaty grounds to have a look. The grounds and area are nicely kept. Not sure if the wander around is worth the $20, but I guess all part of the history of NZ so important to do. Dinner and well that was the day. Doesn’t seem like so much now!
Geez that was only today!! It feels like I’ve been here for longer.
Tue 10 Feb,2009 - Bay of Islands
Out on a day tour of the Islands today. Still overcast, though thankfully no rain. The cruise departed at 9.30am. We went across to the town of Russell, which isn’t an island though is quicker to get to, from Paihia, by water than land. A brief stop and then underway. There were 14 attractions on route. With the furthest point visited being the hole in the rock - yes appropriately named as there was a large hole in the rock in which the ferry could fit through (though the waters were to rough so we couldn’t actually go all the way through, though did go in halfway from the calmer side of the island). The colours of the rock inside were spectacular. The trip itself was lovely (except for the brief moment of seasickness). The captain and other staff members had a great knowledge of the events and history of the different islands - from Captain Cook to Murder mayhem.
We got to see dolphins 3 times throughout the trip. There wasn’t any swimming with them however as there were babies within the group and well they don’t act so kindly when in protection mode. It was fascinating seeing the behaviour of the dolphins in their different roles/stages of life - from the young who stayed close to their mothers side; to the slightly older more playful; to the mothers themselves primarily putting themselves between us and the young; to the matriarchs who would be the first to approach the boat and then constantly be on guard for signs of danger. It was good to hear that there is no feeding of the dolphins as that would then promote dependency and the young not being taught how to hunt and survive for themselves. Also there are limits on the number of boats and the length of time that you can stay around them.
After stop in Russell we passed the Black Rocks on the way to Marsden Cross at Rangihoua Bay. The Black Rocks are volcanic remnants with the interesting thing being that they support flora and birdlife - not something that can happen on most rock surfaces. Marsden Cross is where the first Christian service was held on Christmas Day 1814. From here went back passed the second largest island in the bay, Moturoa. It is farmed with sheep which then fully supports the costs of the 20 owners holiday homes on the island. Next we passed Robertson Island which is one place where Cook anchored Endeavour. It is also where the Robertson family were killed. The father and son died in a boating accident. The mother struggling to keep the farm going due to losing all their savings on the boat hired two men to help her. The young Maori boy got fed up with the antics and cruelty of the older worker and as was the accepted Maori custom the boy killed the man. Upon telling the Mrs Robinson and it being explained that NZ was now under British law and he had committed murder and must be punished the youth killed Mrs Robinson and her two children. The boy then put the bodies in the house and set it alight. The fire was seen from the mainland and ‘help’ soon arrived to witness the gruesome death of the family. The Maori boy was captured, put on trial and hung, becoming the first Maori to be sentenced under British rule. Could just imagine the ghosts still wandering the island! Next was Morurua Island which is a sanctuary for some of NZ’s rarest birds including saddleback, north island robin and spotted kiwi thanks to the efforts of the owner years ago in aiding the reforestation of the island and taking the birds across. Motukiekie is completely privately owned. The original owners, two little old ladies used to lease 75% aprox of the land back to the government for $1. This was the case for years even under the ownership of their family.
Then the government decided that the family needed to pay rates for the privilege of having roads, water, electricity, paths, garbage removal etc, that is the norm on the mainland which did not exist on the island. Anyway the family couldn’t afford the $18 000 fee that was now in place and decided to get the island evaluated for sale. Estimated at 2.5 million they offered the land to the government for $900K. However the government, in their wisdom, refused the offer. Not long after the, now current owners, offered $3.2 million and the deal was down. Can’t remember todays value but probably billions. Anyway the government has now passed a law that before any sale of land on an island the government has the first right of purchase. Hindsight!!
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