Wed 11 Feb, 2009 - Hokianga
Left at 8am on a little bus heading for the west coast of the peninsular. A lovely drive across with much farm land visible. Arrived in Opononi at 9.30 and went to pay for the evening footprints tour before being dropped off at our accommodation further up the road and closer to Omapere. Globe Trekkers is located up the hill slightly and is only a small place. It is a great spot to stay.
In the early afternoon walked around to the south head and around the lookout which, even with the weather, had wondrous views. Returned back into Omapere and had a bite to eat before continuing back to hostel. Though I felt like walking on so continued the 3km walk to Opononi (as you can probably tell the towns are very close together). Just after the information centre I took a path down onto the beach, which the tide was getting lower though did include a few walking across rocks to get around the cliffs. A beautiful walk into town. The houses went on forever along the foreshores before getting to the main town area, which included a mini-mart, hotel, café/restaurant and petrol station - all within 50m. Sat on the boat ramp and watched people jumping into the water and being swept downstream swimming toward an exit point. The flow of the water was pretty swift. Got a little wet on the way back. There has been a drizzle on and off all day, though got a little heavier on the way back. Made it back to the hostel by 4.30pm and had time for a tea, and dry off, before getting organised for the tour.
Tonight was amazing - the best tour I’ve done so far. On the way to the forest there was a huge rainbow. Was only faint and didn’t last long though all the colours were still distinguishable. The tour was a twilight footprints tour which went into the local forest where the main feature was looking at the Kauri tree. The local Maori’s operate and run the tours in the aim of bringing back employment into the area. Not only for this reason but what they are presenting is coming from a place within that is wanting to share their land with tourists, planting a seed of knowledge within each of us so that we to may grow. A nice (translated) Maori quote: A bird who feasts on the berry lives in the forest. A bird who feasts on knowledge lives in the world. The area is now part of the conservation program and huge efforts are being made to not lose this magnificent tree entirely. Over the years of human habitation of NZ 96% of the trees have been cut down. First the Maori’s used the timber for canoes then the Europeans cut them down to make way for farming land and use the timber for building houses, furniture and masts for ships (due to the very straight and tall nature of the truck - perfect for masts of the past). Apparently there are many houses in California made out of Kauri timber. The trees used to be cut then float down river where they would then be put onto the ships to be transported to the mills. Though not all made the journey downstream successfully and apparently there are still millions of dollars worth of timber at the bottom of the river, still in good condition, waiting for someone to figure out how to get them up.
The growth rates of these giants is extremely slow. To see the size of the seed, then the plant at 3months, 3years getting larger the further we walked till we reached the father of the forest, 3000 year old aprox was 30m tall and 16m wide making it, by definition, the 2nd largest in NZ. The largest, about 2000 years old, is 50m tall and about 13m wide. Impressive giants against the growth below. It is amazing to think that with the amount of logging what size some trees must have been! What made this such a magical tour was due to how it was run. The local Maori were the operators and at each stop along the path had traditional information and stories to tell about the land and environment and the ‘life’ that we all exist within. The sun was set by the time we got to the end of the first track and the father of the forest. So with torches in hand the path back out was the time to walk quietly and listen and watch for the nocturnal fauna in the area. On the way in we had seen and heard the Tui. On the way out hoping to hear, if not see, a kiwi and local owl. As we approached each of the two largest trees the guides would start to offer their respects to the spirits in the form of word and song, it was incredible to be standing within metres of these massive structures, and the a dull grey silhouette, listening to the Maori language. And for a moment there was silence. A stillness which echoed throughout the forest, broken by a rustle of the leaves (ignoring the restlessness of some people). At the second tree the guides also played a recorder like instrument which harmonised with the song of praise. With eyes closed the gap between me, the tree and Australia didn’t exist. All was one - the energy existing everywhere simultaneously. For a while the clouds retreated and the stars were visible. A satellite also gliding across the sky. With threads of cloud streaking in front of the, close to full, moon we departed the forest area. Though not before hearing both a male and a female Kiwi calling through the darkness. They do both have different and distinctive sounds. It was a magical night which concluded at 10.30pm with our arrival back at the hostel.
Now at midnight, with all nearly in bed I’m enjoying the sounds of the cicadas and the water lapping onto the beach. There is also a cool breeze blowing which has lifted the humidity out of the air. At one point this afternoon as I was walking back to the hostel getting hit momentarily by an excess of water from the sky, the steam generated and rising from the asphalt was a sight however the feeling of the heat as the breeze blew it directly toward me wasn’t as fun - actually quite intense at times. With fairy lights sparkling in the trees and grapes vines on the patio being lit by rope light I think I’ll call it a night with typing and read before bed. Back to Auckland tomorrow.
Left at 8am on a little bus heading for the west coast of the peninsular. A lovely drive across with much farm land visible. Arrived in Opononi at 9.30 and went to pay for the evening footprints tour before being dropped off at our accommodation further up the road and closer to Omapere. Globe Trekkers is located up the hill slightly and is only a small place. It is a great spot to stay.
In the early afternoon walked around to the south head and around the lookout which, even with the weather, had wondrous views. Returned back into Omapere and had a bite to eat before continuing back to hostel. Though I felt like walking on so continued the 3km walk to Opononi (as you can probably tell the towns are very close together). Just after the information centre I took a path down onto the beach, which the tide was getting lower though did include a few walking across rocks to get around the cliffs. A beautiful walk into town. The houses went on forever along the foreshores before getting to the main town area, which included a mini-mart, hotel, café/restaurant and petrol station - all within 50m. Sat on the boat ramp and watched people jumping into the water and being swept downstream swimming toward an exit point. The flow of the water was pretty swift. Got a little wet on the way back. There has been a drizzle on and off all day, though got a little heavier on the way back. Made it back to the hostel by 4.30pm and had time for a tea, and dry off, before getting organised for the tour.
Tonight was amazing - the best tour I’ve done so far. On the way to the forest there was a huge rainbow. Was only faint and didn’t last long though all the colours were still distinguishable. The tour was a twilight footprints tour which went into the local forest where the main feature was looking at the Kauri tree. The local Maori’s operate and run the tours in the aim of bringing back employment into the area. Not only for this reason but what they are presenting is coming from a place within that is wanting to share their land with tourists, planting a seed of knowledge within each of us so that we to may grow. A nice (translated) Maori quote: A bird who feasts on the berry lives in the forest. A bird who feasts on knowledge lives in the world. The area is now part of the conservation program and huge efforts are being made to not lose this magnificent tree entirely. Over the years of human habitation of NZ 96% of the trees have been cut down. First the Maori’s used the timber for canoes then the Europeans cut them down to make way for farming land and use the timber for building houses, furniture and masts for ships (due to the very straight and tall nature of the truck - perfect for masts of the past). Apparently there are many houses in California made out of Kauri timber. The trees used to be cut then float down river where they would then be put onto the ships to be transported to the mills. Though not all made the journey downstream successfully and apparently there are still millions of dollars worth of timber at the bottom of the river, still in good condition, waiting for someone to figure out how to get them up.
The growth rates of these giants is extremely slow. To see the size of the seed, then the plant at 3months, 3years getting larger the further we walked till we reached the father of the forest, 3000 year old aprox was 30m tall and 16m wide making it, by definition, the 2nd largest in NZ. The largest, about 2000 years old, is 50m tall and about 13m wide. Impressive giants against the growth below. It is amazing to think that with the amount of logging what size some trees must have been! What made this such a magical tour was due to how it was run. The local Maori were the operators and at each stop along the path had traditional information and stories to tell about the land and environment and the ‘life’ that we all exist within. The sun was set by the time we got to the end of the first track and the father of the forest. So with torches in hand the path back out was the time to walk quietly and listen and watch for the nocturnal fauna in the area. On the way in we had seen and heard the Tui. On the way out hoping to hear, if not see, a kiwi and local owl. As we approached each of the two largest trees the guides would start to offer their respects to the spirits in the form of word and song, it was incredible to be standing within metres of these massive structures, and the a dull grey silhouette, listening to the Maori language. And for a moment there was silence. A stillness which echoed throughout the forest, broken by a rustle of the leaves (ignoring the restlessness of some people). At the second tree the guides also played a recorder like instrument which harmonised with the song of praise. With eyes closed the gap between me, the tree and Australia didn’t exist. All was one - the energy existing everywhere simultaneously. For a while the clouds retreated and the stars were visible. A satellite also gliding across the sky. With threads of cloud streaking in front of the, close to full, moon we departed the forest area. Though not before hearing both a male and a female Kiwi calling through the darkness. They do both have different and distinctive sounds. It was a magical night which concluded at 10.30pm with our arrival back at the hostel.
Now at midnight, with all nearly in bed I’m enjoying the sounds of the cicadas and the water lapping onto the beach. There is also a cool breeze blowing which has lifted the humidity out of the air. At one point this afternoon as I was walking back to the hostel getting hit momentarily by an excess of water from the sky, the steam generated and rising from the asphalt was a sight however the feeling of the heat as the breeze blew it directly toward me wasn’t as fun - actually quite intense at times. With fairy lights sparkling in the trees and grapes vines on the patio being lit by rope light I think I’ll call it a night with typing and read before bed. Back to Auckland tomorrow.
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