Tongariro Crossing, NZ

Sun 15 Feb, 2009 - Taupo and Tongariro Crossing

What a day! Had a bus pick up at 5.40am and was dropped off at the starting point of the track, Mangatepopo Carpark (1150m) at 7am. When we left Taupo the cloud was low over the area and could barely see the sun rising. There was just a peak of it on the horizon where there was a thin gap of sky stretching across the horizon. By the time we got to the track the cloud as predicted was lifting. A good thing - would hate to come all this way and have it cancelled.

Toilet, sunscreen, toes taped and set off at 7.20am.
At 8.15 was at Soda Springs. The first stretch was a gentle stretch which was mainly boardwalk. From Soda Springs to the South Crater (1660m) became more challenging, though a well marked track. Just before reaching the South Crater I veered up Mt Ngauruhoe aiming to reach it’s 2291m peak. This was extremely challenging as there is no track or markers - you just go … up! This extinct volcano (well stated as relatively quiet since 1975) was a gigantic pile of loose rocks. With every step you could either slip down or be lucky enough for the combination of rocks to have enough friction that they would stay in place. It certainly was hit and miss. Many time thinking I was going to step upward on a nice large, sturdy rock to suddenly find my foot back where it started and smaller rubble flying down the mountain (look out below … sorry!). On and on I battled. Many times thinking I’m not going any further - I’ve had enough! Then I would look across the mountain to the left and see people going up effortlessly - so that’s where I need to be (as I would find out later I started going up too early. It was signposted further along the main track!). Anyway gradually made the way up and across to where things appear more stable - appearances can be deceiving.

Whilst there were easier sections it was certainly extremely variable and predominantly unstable - I was so glad I bought that knee brace yesterday. All the way up the views were amazing. It was all so desolate. No signs of ‘life’ at all. Just rock after rock - but amazing formations at that. About halfway up the clouds started coming back in and was in a complete white out for awhile. Gradually I got up above the cloud line and felt on top of the world. So after couple hours and edging ever so slowly up toward the peak the rocks turned from black and grey to a reddish tinge. I looked up and guessed I still had another half hour to go to the top and it looked like it was getting worse. The cloud momentarily cleared and I got the best views yet. So I called ‘top’ and started heading back down. I’d had enough fun for one day! Also thought that if I didn’t start moving I would never get to the end in time for the bus. The 15min trip back down was much more exciting. Step and slide all the way to the bottom - so much quicker!

So from the South Crater around to the Red Crater (1886m), after what I had just done, was much easier though, was challenging even still. Just prior to the Red Crater I took the track up to the peak of Mt Tongariro (1967m) - was at least going to make it to the summit of something today. Very few (no one that I knew anyway) had done, or attempted, both summits that day. Maybe a few of the guys who were well ahead of me had, but will never know! So around midday got to the top of Mt Tongariro and well a good one to reach - it is the name of the track after all! Again, amazing views. Could see the south crater and over to the Emerald lakes and the blue lake far off in the distance. Got back down to the main track and then opening up around the next corner was the red crater which was stunning. Around a rock and there were the emerald lakes - 3 of them. The colour was sensational. Getting down this section of the track was similar to coming down off Mt Ngauruhoe. By the time I reached the Emerald lakes I was starting to feel tired, then suddenly I realised how long ago I had had breakfast and I hadn’t really stopped since I started walking hours before. So lunch at the Emerald Lakes was a nice break.

Continued across the flat Central Crater and a short upward burst to the Blue Lake. Which with the vast light brown of the landscape around, certainly was blue. The walk around from blue lake to Ketetahi Hut (1454m) saw a slow increase in alpine grasses and flowers scattered across the land. By the time got to the hut started to get some insects as well. Made it to the hut by 2pm - finally a toilet! Had made it through to this point in good time and thus and some to spare! Sat for half hour overlooking the valley and finished my lunch.

The final stretch down to the Ketetahi Carpark (750m) probably felt the longest, particularly the final 3-4 kms. Though the walk was interesting as he bushes and shrubs slowly got larger the further you headed down the valley. The final hour was through the bush with the end taking you along a stream. Arrived at the Car Park at 4.15pm with time to spare before the final bus departure at 4.30pm. A 19km main track plus whatever extra I clocked up with the two summits scaled. Shoes and socks off!! Ahhhh … fresh air for feet and only one new blister (one that I didn’t think I needed to tape!). At least the rest didn’t get worse. Didn’t leave till 5pm as there was one guy who had called to say was running late and kindly the bus driver had said she would wait (unlike some of the other drivers!) with words of ‘run’! It turns out he had come on a later bus and had persevered with Mt Ngauruhoe summit and thus hadn’t effectively managed his time, even though there are very clear timeframes given in the brochure. Made it back to the hostel by 6.30pm and collapsed in the spa.

Later in the evening went for a walk around town and then found Jen staying at the Tiki Lodge. She was a little confused when I hadn’t been there. Though at least with scheduled buses would meet eventually! So sat with her for a while then hungry and tired headed back to the YHA - the end of an extremely long day.